From the Sugarlands Visitor Center, drive 8.6 miles east on Newfound Gap Road. There you will find two parking areas, where a gravel path leads to The Grassy Patch and the beginning of a 2.3 mile hike to Alum Cave Bluff.

Summary: This moderately difficult hike is 4.6 miles round-trip or 5.1 miles on to LeConte Lodge. The round-trip to the cave bluff takes about 2 and 1/2 hours, but allow about 3 and 1/2 hours to LeConte Lodge. The Alum Cave Trail is the most popular and well-known route to Mount Le Conte.
Elevation: You gain 2600 feet on the way to 6400 feet.

Features: Arch Rock, 1993 summer storm damage, Inspiration Point, Alum Cave Bluff
Mother Nature's majesty and power are clearly demonstrated in this 4.6 mile (round-trip) hike. The views are great, particularly if you go on to LeConte Lodge and Cliff Tops, and the trail is not too difficult--even for children. To demonstrate, I recall an early visit (I was much younger and more fit) when I carried my sleeping daughter on my shoulder for the majority of the first half of the hike.

You'll begin this hike at the Grassy Patch just off the parking area. Shortly after entering the forest, you will Alum Cave Bluff Trail parallel the Alum Cave Creek for approximately a mile and then follow Styx Branch, a main tributary of Alum Cave Creek. A few hundred yards beyond this point, you'll see the boulder and log remains of a 1993 flash flood and landslide on your left. A heavy thunderstorm dumped several inches of rain, with a force so great that huge boulders were exposed and tossed--its path is clear to the hiker and will remain so for years. At mile 1.5 you come to Arch Rock, where a set of stone stairs aids your passage through one of the few natural arches inside the park. At the 1.8 mile mark you will come upon Inspiration Point, affording the first panoramic view of the area. Thereafter, you'll pass through an area of low shrubs, and shortly thereafter arrive at Alum Cave Bluff (mile 2.3). Alum Cave is not what the name implies. Its not a cave--rather it's a jutting ledge of black slate, forming out over the trail to give the impression of a cave. The name Alum Cave comes from the deposits of alum found along the "cave" walls.

For the hardy souls who will continue on to LeConte Lodge, the trail curves up and around the bluff and begins following the ridge that forms the southern flank of Mount Le Conte.
Two hundred yards from it's finish at Le Conte Lodge, the trail is joined from the left by the Rainbow Falls Trail. Le Conte Lodge consists of several wood-shingled cabins, two lodges, and a dining room. There is no electricity and water is pumped into holding tanks from a spring. The lodge uses llamas to haul in supplies (that's a story for a future issue!). Reservations can be made at LeConte Lodge by calling (423) 429-5704.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park and the Appalachian Trail

The Great Smoky Mountains National Park Hike
The Appalachian Trail

The Appalachian Trail meanders accross the mountain tops of The Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Conceived in 1921 by Benton McKay and initially cleared and marked in 1923, the Appalachian Trail was completed in 1937 and is a marvelous tribute to the well-meaning individuals such as McKay who overcame many obstacles to create this splendid national treasure. The trail winds for 2,015 miles (actually it varies due to changes in sections of the trail) Appalachian Trail in the Great Smoky Mtns through parts of 14 states. Its southern terminus is Springer, GA and ends (or begins, depending on your perspective) on Mount Katahdin in Maine.

The Appalachian Trail in the Great Smoky Mountains

The Trail (or AT as it is commonly called) includes a section 69 miles in length that serves as a boundary for Tennessee and North Carolina in the Great Smoky Mountains. A few hardy souls thru-hike the entire lengh of the AT each year (approximately 200 each year), but visitors to the Smokies can enjoy less challenging lengths of the Trail that are accessible from a few of the hiking trails that connect to the AT. One popular approach is to park at the Newfound Gap parking area (where you can also visit the memorial where Franklin D. Roosevelt dedicated the Great Smoky Mountains National Park). From the parking area, you can hike modest portions both north and south on the Trail. One popular destination is north to Charlies Bunion. From Charlies Bunion, fire clearings above steep mountain slopes afford spectacular views to peaks and valleys below.

About every eight miles or so, the National Park Service has erected overnight shelters that have primitive bunks for sleeping along the trail in The Great Smoky Mountains National Park. These shelters are covered by wire screen on one side to keep the bears at bay. Stays are limited to one night and a backcountry permit or reservation is required. Permits for reservations can be obtained from Park Headquarters by calling (423) 436-1231. Reservations can be made up to 30 days in advance by calling, or in person at the Twentymile Ranger Station (south end of the Park) and Big Creek Ranger Station (north end).

Less-populated (but interesting) trails connecting to the AT include Lower Mt. Cammerer Trail to the north near the Cosby, TN entrance to the Park and the Gregory Bald Trail to the south end of the Park near the Twentmile Ranger Station. Also at the southern end of the Park, the AT passes Fontana Dam, and this area boasts some of the most treachorous and challenging portions of the Trail. A Great Smoky Mountains National Park trail map can be obtained by calling (423) 436-0120.

Boogerman Trail Loop in the Great Smoky Mountains

Hiking The Great Smoky Mountains National Park
Boogerman Trail Loop

Summary: A moderately challenging 7.4 mile (round-trip) hike that takes you by some old growth forest, picturesque streams and falls, and the remains of early settler's homesites. Plan on roughly three hours, depending on your pace and whether you have children along. The departure point is in the Cataloochee section (the North Carolina side), which is a little more difficult to get to (see the map and directions), but well worth the effort.

Elevation: You will climb to approximately 800 feet to an altitude of 3,600 feet.

Point of departure: After following the directions from I-40, NC 276, and Cove Creek Road, navigate your way to the Caldwell Fork Trail (follow the signs).

Purchase Park and Trail maps online

The Boogerman Trail Hike, first and foremost, takes you away from the traffic and population of the Tennessee side of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. It takes a bit of trouble to get to Cataloochee (see the directions on the map below), but I'll bet my last dollar you'll enjoy the Cataloochee area--and you'll be back.

Boogerman Trail Loop Map

The Boogerman Trail is named for Robert "Boogerman" Palmer, whose homesite you'll pass as you complete this moderately challenging 7-mile loop trail, which can take between 2 and 3 hours to complete. You will gain nearly 850 feet on your way to 3,600 feet at the trail's highest point.

The trail is well maintained and this hike offers up views of some of the largest trees in the area, old homesites (including Palmer's) and mountain streams. This area was spared from the logging operations which dominated much of the Smokies area before the land was purchased for the Park.

After following the directions from I-40, NC 276, and Cove Creek Road, navigate your way to the Caldwell Fork Trail (follow the signs). Cross Cataloochee Creek on a footbridge and you'll enter a stand of white pines. When the trail splits, stay right and climb a narrow edge along Caldwell Fork. You'll cross Caldwell Fork on a footbridge and enter an area of old-growth trees. You will pass through a gap, and traverse an area dominated by white pines. At mile 2.8, you will encounter the Palmer (Boogerman) homesite.

At mile 3.8 of your loop, the trail turns down to the right alongside Snake Branch, around a rock wall, and across a small stream. Here you will see some clearings, old fence posts and piles of stone, which indicate where homesites previously existed near the creek.

Nearing the five-mile point you will cross Snake Branch , and in an area of towering hemlocks you will begin crossing Caldwell Fork several times via log footbridges. The stream offers up picturesque views of both quiet, deep pools and noisy falls. Several hundred yards before crossing Cataloochee Creek at approximately mile 7.4--and completion of the loop--you will see the remains of a cabin and barn built by Carson Messer.

The Cataloochee area can be described as North Carolina's answer to Cades Cove. Though the old homesteads are not preserved as well as those in Cades Cove, the remains, combined with the overpowering beauty of the area, give you a good sense and feel for those old times when things were simpler. The "Boogerman" Trail hike was a great way to introduce myself to the Cataloochee area, and I came away feeling stronger and more fulfilled than when I arrived.

Ramsay Cascades Trail in the Smoky Mountains

Hiking the Smokies:
Ramsay Cascades Trail

The rewards are great on this 8-mile round-trip hike in the Greenbrier section of the Park. The diligent hiker not only gets to enjoy the Ramsay Cascade falls--arguably the best waterfall in the Smokies-- but also can view stands of old-growth trees which never suffered from the logger's saw or the settler's ax.

Summary: You have only to take this hike once to understand why it's one of the most popular. The falls are ample reward not only for the hiker, but the artist and photographer as well. The trail starts out with a slight upgrade in the beginning, then becomes more challenging as you near the cascades. The latter portion of the trail is where you will find the old growth trees--some of which measure in record proportions. The round-trip is approximately 8 miles and can take a little over four hours, depending on whether you take children.

Directions: From Gatlinburg, drive east along US 321 (stop-light #3 in Gatlinburg) for approximately 6 miles. Turn right on Greenbrier Road and travel 3.1 miles along the Little Pigeon River to Greenbrier Cove. Turn left at Ramsay Prong Road and travel 1.5 miles to the parking area. The trail begins at the back of the parking area.

Ramsay Cascades Trail Map

Your hike will start on the south side of the Middle Prong of the Little Pigeon River on the Ramsay Cascade Trail. You will cross the prong on a very long footbridge, and make your way past Ramsay Branch, which flows from Greenbrier Pinnacle on your left. At mile 1.5, the trail comes to a turnaround. The Greenbrier Pinnacle Trail turns off to the left. The Ramsay Cascade Trail continues forward and your climb becomes more steep.

Beside the Ramsay Prong is a primitive stand of chestnut oaks, poplars, black cherries, hemlocks, and yellow birch that forms a high canopy over the trail. Some of the largest chestnut oaks in the Smokies are found along this lower section of the trail. At higher elevations the black cherries and poplars grow to near-record sizes.
Shortly after the first crossing, the trail passes through a stand of cucumber trees. These trees are particularly enjoyable in the spring when they are sporting their bright, yellow blossoms. At the 2-mile point, before the trail crosses back to the Pinnacle Lead side of the creek, the undergrowth falls away, leaving the trail flanked by a grove of tall buckeyes, hemlocks, red maples, poplars, and tall black cherry trees, from which the section gets its name--the Cherry Orchard.

A winding passageway through huge boulders identifies the approach to Ramsay Cascades--arguably the most spectacular waterfall in the Park. Here, two streams converge to tumble nearly 100 feet over the eight stairstep ledges. It's a marvelous place to spread out a lunch or set up the tripod and camera, or simply relax and recover from the trail.

Watercolor "Ramsay Cascades" by Vern Hippensteal The graded trail ends at the cascades ("Ramsay Cascades" by Gatlinburg watercolorist Vern Hippensteal at right), but more reward waits for the intrepid hiker, for approximately one-half mile above Ramsay Cascade--if you make your way through dense rhododendron--the trail approaches the creek at a memorable location known as Drinkwater Pool. Drinkwater Pool is the largest of a succession of basins on the Ramsay Prong, where the water collects in pools before continuing on to charm the visitors at the cascades. Drinkwater Pool is surrounded by ledges covered with overhanging rhododendron above which towers a stand of virgin birch. We stood in this area and imagined being the first to discover the sight. We are truly blessed to be able to enjoy such as this!

Don't quit yet! About a half mile above Drinkwater Pool is a second cascade, which is higher and nearly as enjoyable as Ramsay Cascades. On the face of a two-hundred-foot cliff are more than a dozen small, wispy waterfalls. They catch the eye and hold it, for these falls are not aligned one after the other. Each fall has a separate ledge where the water pools before falling to the next.

For the hardiest of hikers, the Appalachian Trail waits above these falls--should you want to continue another 1.5 miles.

Rainbow Falls Trail Hike in the Smoky Mountains

Smoky Mountains Wedding Chapels

Hiking the Smokies
Rainbow Falls Trail

The Rainbow Falls Trail is one of several (see the map below) that will take you to the peak of Mt. LeConte and is also the oldest or earliest route to LeConte. The trail can be challenging, but also offers an intermediate reward in that it affords the hiker a rest at the beautiful Rainbow Falls.

Summary: The Rainbow Falls Trail is fairly challenging if completed all the way to Mt LeConte. Allow an hour and a half to Rainbow Falls and four hours to Mt LeConte. Hikers will gain nearly 4,000 feet in elevation by the time they get to Mt. LeConte.

Point of Departure: Cherokee Orchard Road - Turn at light #8 in Gatlinburg and follow the Airport Road 1 mile out of Gatlinburg into the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The name will change from Airport Road to Cherokee Orchard Road. About 2.5 miles after entering the Park, Cherokee Orchard Road approaches the Rainbow Falls parking area. You will find the trail head at one edge of the parking area.

Features of Interest: Your first reward comes at the 2.8 mile point when you arrive at Rainbow Falls. At the 6.6 mile point you will come upon an Alum Cave Trail junction which leads left 0.1 mile to the LeConte Lodge (the only lodging to be found within the Park), which is 6.7 miles from where you began. Overnights at LeConte Lodge require a reservation, which should be obtained weeks or even months in advance by calling (423) 429-5704.

A short jaunt to Rainbow Falls and a challenging climb on to Mt. LeConte await the hiker on The Rainbow Falls Trail.

The Rainbow Falls Trail gains nearly four thousand feet in 6.7 miles, making it one of the more uniquely challenging climbs in the Smokies. The original trail is arguably the oldest route to Mount LeConte, and followed the east side of LeConte Creek. At that time, LeConte Creek was known as Mill Creek-- because of the large number of grist mills that operated along the creek.

The Rainbow Falls Trail begins along the stream, and 1 mile above Cherokee Orchard, it twists away from the stream onto an exposed ridge. Shortly it returns creekside, the hiker crossing by way of a footlog, and then begins a series of climbing switchbacks.

After you cross the stream a second time, you can spot the high cliff from which the falls descend. The cliff is surrounded by a thicket of rhododendron and a growth of hemlocks.

LeConte Creek is fairly narrow at this point, and forces the water outward into a heavy mist before settling eighty-two feet below. Sunlight reflecting off this mist creates the rainbow effect which gives the falls their name.

When you cross the LeConte Creek for the third time, Rainbow Falls comes into complete view. Navigation over the rocks allows a closer approach--and a better view--of the falls. For the hardier hiker, the trail continues beyond Rainbow Falls, and becomes steeper, before changing again to a more easy course on the way to the LeConte terminus. The hiker should remember--as the trail moves up the mountain and into the cooler, moist upper reaches of LeConte--that temperatures can change considerably and unprepared hikers might find themselves in surprisingly cool temperatures--especially if it's raining. With the change in climate, plant life changes as well. Balsam, spruce, and mountain ash dominate the trees, and crimson bee balms, asters, Indian Pipes, and monkshoods are also evident.

A short distance from the summit of Mount LeConte the Bull Head and Alum Cave Bluff trails intersect the Rainbow Falls Trail. At this point, you will be only a few hundred yards from the top of Mt. LeConte and LeConte Lodge.

Note: If you have access to the internet prior to departure, you can check the general weather conditions and temperatures at different elevations. Use this only as a guideline, however, because conditions can change abruptly in the Smokies, which average 90 inches of rain each year.

Shuckstack Tower Trail Hike in the Smokies

Great Smoky Mountains National Park
Hike to Shuckstack Tower

Description & Photo by Jacqueline Lott

Length: 6.8 miles roundtrip
Difficulty: Medium to Strenuous
Highlights: Excellent views of Fontana Lake and the Smokies
Caution: Steep terrain can be slick in snow or rain, or on fallen leaves
Note: Best hiked on a clear day to enjoy the view.
Directions: Shuckstack is on the North Carolina side of the Park. From Bryson, take NC 28 to Fontana Dam. Start your hike from the north side of the dam.

Hike to Shuckstack Tower Trail Map

The historic fire towers of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park were once used to gain a bird's eye view of the mountains in order to spot forest fires. Though many of the towers were removed as more modern methods for fire detection were developed, Shuckstack and three other towers remain. These out of the way destinations are well worth the extra effort, and the vistas they provide are by far better than any view available from any roadside overlook.

Located on Twentymile ridge, the Shuckstack fire tower is just a tenth of a mile from the Appalachian Trail and a mere 3.4 miles from the road. The quickest and easiest way to access the tower is to begin on the north side of Fontana Dam, which is on the North Carolina side of the Park. Please note that the dam is under renovation at this time, and vehicles are prohibited from crossing the dam. Foot traffic across the dam is allowed, however. The section of road you have to walk to reach the trailhead is nice and level, but it will add a little over a mile to the roundtrip distance of the hike.

As you cross the dam, scan the mountains to the north and you'll be able to make out the tower in the distance. Fontana Dam is a monumental piece of engineering, and is the largest dam east of the Rocky Mountains; the lake is over 400 feet deep at full pool! Continue across the dam, take a right, and you'll find yourself at the Appalachian Trail in a little over half a mile. Now begins the fairly challenging ascent of Twentymile Ridge. The trail is uphill nearly from the start - just remember that slow and steady wins the race. Take breaks as you need them, and you'll find that the three and a half miles to the tower isn't as daunting as most make it out to be. You'll notice that there are plenty of short but flat stretches on the trail that allow you to catch your breath, and plenty of fallen logs and rocks to sit on and rest along the way. Though it's often difficult to gauge your progress, you will have glimpses of the tower from time to time (especially in winter months). At around two and a half miles the trail will level considerably, and the walking will be easy for the next half mile or so. Then, about a quarter of a mile from the tower you'll encounter your steepest climb (it's mercifully short, though). Once on Twentymile Ridge, you'll encounter a three-way intersection. The AT is marked with simple white line blazed on the trees, while the path the tower is marked with a white "T". From here, the tower is just a tenth of a mile.

The Shuckstack fire tower is actually a small wood and metal building perched atop a winding eighty-foot staircase. You'll no doubt see that the view from the rocks at the bottom of the fire tower is incredible, but the view from the tower is much better. As you begin to climb the tower, you'll notice that it moves ever so slightly, but don't be alarmed. Wind continuously blows across View of Fontana Lake from Shuckstack Tower this ridge, and the tower is made to give a little. From the top of the tower, you'll be awarded a spectacular 360-degree view, with mountains in all directions. The Unicoi Mountains can be seen to the west, the Snowbird and Nantahala Mountains to the south, the Blue Ridge Mountains to the southeast, and the Smokies to the east and north. Remember looking up at the tower as you walked across Fontana Dam? From this vantagepoint, you'll be able to make out the dam and all of the land you covered on your way to the tower. You've covered about three and a half miles and climbed over two thousand feet. It's a rewarding feeling indeed. To return to your car, simply descend from the tower and return the way you came

If your trek to Shuckstack is a day-hike, take a knapsack and carry a few extra items. Include some bottled water and a snack. Never drink the water from a Park stream without boiling it first. Though the streams in the park are invitingly cool and deceptively clear, they contain bacteria that can wreck your trip and a substantial period thereafter, if you succumb to the temptation to drink from them. You might even include a camera in your knapsack too. A backcountry permit is required for overnight stays in the backcountry. Certain campsites are reserved in advance. Permits are available at visitors centers or by calling (865) 436-1231.

Complete Smoky Mountains Info

Hiking the Great Smoky Mountains National Park:
Hike to Chimney Tops

by Jacqueline Thompson

Although only two miles in length, the Great Smoky Mountains National Park trail to Chimney Tops requires strength and caution. Nevertheless, due Map to Chimney Tops to the excellent views available from this trail, as well as abundant wildflowers, streams and large trees, many feel a hike up to "the chimneys" is well worth both effort and risk. By this logic, Chimney Tops trail has become one of the Great Smoky Mountain National Park's most popular trails.

To reach the Chimney Tops trailhead from Gatlinburg Tennessee, take Newfound Gap road into the park (purchase Park and Trail maps online). Newfound Gap road is the only road which completely traverses the Great Smoky Mountain National park, linking Cherokee NC to Gatlinburg TN. From the Sugarlands Visitor Center, continue 6.7 miles until you reach the parking lot at the Chimney Tops trailhead. The parking lot and trailhead is located between the lower tunnel and "the loop" on Newfound Gap road. If traveling from Cherokee to Chimney Tops, take the Newfound gap road twenty-two miles from Oconaluftee Visitor Center.

Once at the trailhead, there is plenty of room for parking, but the trail itself is sometimes a bit crowded due to its popularity. A tour bus in the parking lot means more people on the trail, so if you are looking for a back-to-nature experience along this trail, you may enjoy a hike to Chimney Tops during off-season. If so, beware of ice in really cold weather, as the trail is steep, rising 1,300 feet from the trailhead to the chimney-like pinnacles which give this trail its name. Ice tends to form early at the higher elevations of the Great Smoky Mountain National park. The highest point of Chimney Tops trail is 4,840 feet above sea level.

The Chimney Tops Trail begins at the low rock wall bordering the parking lot area. Here you will find Eastern hemlocks, a beautiful feature of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The trail descends to a bridge across the Walker Camp Prong of the Little Pigeon River. In fact the trail crosses several bridges and tributaries along the one mile hike to Beech Flats. The second and third bridge both cross the Road Prong and guide the hikers on to the next landmark, Beech Flats Cove. This is approximately the half way mark of the trail. At Beech Flats, the Chimney Tops Trail crosses the Road Prong Trail that in turn leads to the Appalachian Trail at Indian gap 2.3 miles away. If your destination is Chimney Tops, you will want to stay on the main trail that veers right into a creek valley on the north side of Sugarland Mountain. This part of the trail cuts through an inspiring old growth forest, but beware of tree roots which have tripped many a hiker as they admired these old giants of the Smokies. At the top of the gulch, you'll see one of the oldest yellow Buckeyes in the Park, and just beyond the Buckeye are two sharp switchbacks that take the hiker to the bottom of the Chimneys as they rise from Sugarland Mountain.

The upper end of Chimney Tops trail is not a graded trail as it was in the beginning , but the trail views of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park are astounding. The upper end of the trail narrows to a smaller trail called a manway. Narrowing, the trail continues on quite a distance. At its steepest point, the manway becomes an arduous climb--especially if ice has formed on the trail. The terrain can be rugged in places.

Two miles into the hike, you will be able to see the chimneys themselves. Care should be taken as you follow the path to the right that leads to the top. Here you can see Mount Le Conte to the east, Mount Mingus to the south, and to the west, a steep wooded side of Sugarland Mountain. Injuries have occurred in this area, as there is a hole large enough to fall into, so take precautions to keep yourself and your loved ones safe.

Despite the obvious risks, even the upper end of Chimney Tops trail is worn smooth in places by the hoards of View from Chimney Tops hikers willing to risk life and limb to experience "the chimneys". Why? Adventure perhaps? Or perhaps the urge to explore the chimneys for themselves? Perhaps others go simply to be edified by the breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains, while others go to enjoy the abundant beauty of the old growth forest and flora to be found there. Whatever the reason, the popularity of this Great Smoky Mountains National Park trail continues season after season.

There are many plants of interest along the length of Chimney Tops trail. Old Hemlocks grace its top, and flowering trees and shrubs dot it's length. See how many you can recognize along your walk. To get you started, there is a large Fraser magnolia near the first bridge along this trail. Its blossoms are large, white and pretty hard to miss when in bloom in late April or early May.

Rhododendron is abundant in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park and along Chimney Tops trail is no exception. Also common are a variety of wildflowers. In Spring, you can find Trillium (right) and Hepatica (left). In Summer, Joe-Pye weed, Bee-balm, and Jewelweed can be found. Violets, Toothworts, and Foamflowers also grow nearby. On the trail to the Chimneys people rave about the yellow buckeye trees due to the age of these trees, their unusual leaf structure and the flowers which appear in May. A trek to Chimney Tops will make you understand why it is so popular. You will probably want to return on your next visit to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park--and get fit in the process!

Hiking the Smokies:
Old Settlers Trail

Narrative and photos contributed by Gary Acquaviva
(click on smaller images to view larger ones)

One of the most interesting trails in the Great Smoky Mountain National Park is Old Settlers Trail. Its historical OST Trail marker landmarks set it apart from most other trails. It is less rocky and smoother than many other trails. Add to these points its biological diversity and you have three distinguishing features. The trail may be accessed in the Greenbrier area approximately 12.3 miles from Cosby or about 4 miles from Gatlinburg. Or, it may be accessed 1.2 miles up Albright Grove trail, which is about 2.3 miles west of Cosby, Tennessee, on state road 321. At that point turn toward the GSMNP onto Baxter Rd. Drive through a quaint mountain subdivision of cabins to Laurel Springs Road; then turn right and drive a few hundred yards until you see a gated gravel road on the left. Parking is permitted along the road so long as you do not block the gated entrance. Another, lesser known, entrance exists near Steiner Bell Lodge parking lot, which is about 13 miles from Cosby and about 1/2 mile up a narrow driveway leading to the Lodge. Next to the left side of the parking lot the trail begins. It descends about 700 yards down to a marshy area where there is a post-marker. An old cemetery exists beyond the field to the right, up on a hill. But, the trail to OST goes left and leads to another post-marker and Old Settlers Trail – hereafter OST. The following descriptions will take us on a hike east from the Greenbrier area of the GSMNP. (Purchase Park and Trail maps online.) This Park entrance is about 4 miles east of Gatlinburg, Tennessee. The park road winds into the park along side the Little Pigeon River, past the ranger station, past a picnic area, and to a wooden bridge over the river. Turn left onto the bridge, cross over it, over another smaller bridge, and another larger bridge. On the left of the road, a parking area and a sign to Old Settlers Trail exist. The trail begins here and parallels Little Pigeon River for several hundred yards.

Old Settlers Trail Hike Map

Bird Creek

The first creek crossing is at Bird Creek. The adventurous may hike up the west side of the creek and find the remains of a few home sites - four once existed along this creek. One fireplace will be found a few hundred yards up the creek, but more picturesque ones will be found further on OST. The trail passes two large stone outcropping on the right about 100 yards apart, and then it begins to climb a small ridge beside the river. At one point, the river can be seen down below, through the rhododendron. It then curves around the ridge and descends to cross a small tributary. One homesite exists up this small valley. On the left the astute observer will see the old-road bed. The trail widens as it merges with the road to become one. The adventurous may follow the old road to the river and discover, upstream, remains that once held a walk bridge over the river.

Little Bird Creek

The trail continues into Little Bird valley. One short stone wall will be seen on the right and then another as the trail narrows between the creek and the stone wall. Some say the walls were used as boundary lines; others say they were used to keep livestock. The trail crosses over Little Bird Creek and continues up the valley parallel to the left fork of Little Bird Creek. A white pipe exists behind a tree on the right with a metal tag on the tree. These markers are used for research in the park. The trail then turns west and crosses over a deep trench that contains the left fork of Little Bird Creek during the rainy seasons. The remains of what supported a small bridge can be seen in the trench. The tail then climbs up alongside the left fork a few hundred yards. Another short wall of stones can be seen on the south, across the drainage area. In a few more paces, at the point where the trail veers perpendicular to the left fork of Little Bird Creek, the homesite belonging to the wall of stones may be seen. OST zigzags west and north several times as it gradually climbs Copeland Divide. The ridge of Copeland Divide can be seen to the north. It passes through a forest of young hemlocks, sassafras, maples, and oaks. It continues past a large 100 year-old oak and a shagbark hickory as it approaches the crest of Copeland Ridge, turns to a 20-degree east-northeast heading in a flat area on the ridge top and continues for several hundred yards at a 2200' elevation. It crests the ridge and descends on the northern side with a large hollow on the left. This is the watershed area for Copeland Creek. OST zigzags north and east as it continues in an east-northeast direction. In the late fall and winter when the leaves have fallen, the trail will darken as it enters into a hemlock forest. An unusually large holly tree is seen on the right as the trail gradually climbs back up to 2200'. Here it passes between two large old oaks. This is a good place to take a rest or have a snack. The trail then descends past a large, split tulip poplar tree on the left and zigzags through hollows continuing its course east-northeast. It goes through a pine forest, a deciduous forest and into another cluster of pines as it approaches Copeland Creek.

Copeland Creek

The slope is very steep on the left of the trail as enters into another rhododendron thicket - indicating a watershed. Pipsissewa can be seen growing on the forest floor and the sound of Copeland Creek can be heard. As the trail crosses over the creek the old road, overgrown with young trees and brush, can be seen to the left as it follows Copeland Creek down into the valley. Early settlers once inhabited this valley. The old 1932 map shows that eight homes once existed along Copeland Creek - with the last of the eight above the creek crossing and to the right of the trail. West of the junction of the creek and a tributary, near the 1400' elevation, Bonwell Chapel once stood. Five more homes once existed up along this tributary, three more below the chapel along side Copeland Creek and two more up Left Fork. After crossing Copeland Creek the trail ascends through a large mountain laurel thicket and enters another unusually flat area for more than a hundred yards. A tall pin oak stands above the thicket on the left and in the autumn its colorful red leaves identify it. It then begins to descend past a stand of large oaks, over one hundred years old, on the south. What appears to be a ravine on the right of the trail becomes the trail as it switches back from a northern heading to a southern heading. It goes through a rhododendron tunnel with a ridge to the right and a small mountain peak on the left 1/4 of a mile away. Large loblolly pines are seen on the left and a ridge on the left blocks the view to the north. As it continues it turns to a southern heading at Cat Stairs pinnacle can be seen straight ahead, to the south, above the trail. The trail descends into a hollow as it enters a quiet region of mixed conifer forest of pine and tall hemlock. It continues is descend to the headwaters of Snakefeeder Branch.

Snakefeeder Branch

OST crosses the headwaters of Snakefeeder Branch where several settlers once lived. A fallen chimney will be seen on the right, and the vegetation noticeably changes. More sunlight enters this valley and cane grass, ferns and little brown jugs can be seen on the forest floor. Another fallen chimney is passed on the left of the trail and a large grapevine hangs beside the trail. A third chimney in a large flat clearing is seen on the left, then OST crosses the creek and continues down with the creek on the left, or west of the trail. It soon approaches a signpost identifying Old Settlers Trail. Across the deep creek bed is a road that leads up to old Lindsey Cemetery. Beyond it another road leads to 321, so in an emergency this can be used as a quick access out. However, OST goes east through a large brushy area and crosses Soak Ash Creek.

Soak Ash Creek (elevation 1400')

Another settlement existed in this very flat area. The trail continues another half mile and soon crosses Evans Creek as it goes through more rhododendron and pine to a signpost. Behind this signpost is a trail that leads to Steiner Bell Lodge and highway 321.

Evans Creek (elevation 1424')

The choices are right, or west to Greenbrier and the Little River, or left, east toward Cosby. Turning left the trail follows Evans Creek gradually uphill. The old map shows a road going south less than 400 yards from the intersection and another going north 50-100 yards beyond. The southern road shows 7 homesites, and the northern shows two, along with Fairview School and continues to intersect 321. It also shows the old road going due east and nearly straight to Timothy Creek – it does not appear to veer south around a ridge on the old map, as the trail seems to do - check it out! OST then levels, until it crosses Timothy Creek.

Timothy Creek

On the other side of Timothy Creek are the remains of a chimney with the "V" hearth and a smokehouse next to the creek. Beside it is an old roadbed that continues up along side the creek. A few more home sites existed upstream. The trail then climbs up alongside the roadbed for about 400 yards, passing a stone wall that runs from the trail to the old roadbed, then it turns left (el. 1803) and continues past several stone walls on both sides of the trail. It continues a few hundred yards and crosses Darky Branch Creek, which is surrounded with rhododendron then goes around a ridge with a view to the left to the condo units at Cobbly Knob directly to the north.

A little further on the trail exists a signpost identifying OST. Near it, another unmarked trail can be seen on the west side of the trail that begins down a ridge top and eventually leads to highway 321 I about 6/10th of a mile. Martha McCarters Road can be seen on the opposite side of the highway and to the east about 3/10th of a mile is a restaurant. This unmarked trail may be used in case of an emergency, but be prepared to climb over and under fallen logs. Be forewarned that when going off trail in the summer months you may encounter snakes.

Old Settlers Trail continues around the ridge to the right to campsites 33A and 33B next to an old fallen fireplace. Both sites have posts marking their location and the park service has erected wires and pulley to hang food and gear high above the reach of animals. Beyond campsite 33B the trail begins to descend to Redwine creek. The old map shows two or three home sites upstream from the intersection of OST and Redwine Creek. The continuance of the original road can be seen to the right before crossing the creek.

Redwine Creek

After crossing Redwine Creek the trail goes up a slight rise and around a ridge in a southeast direction then up along a ridge through an extensive outgrowth of mountain laurel. There are views to the west as the trail climbs the ridge and at one point the trail passes around a large sandstone outcropping (elevation 2000 feet) it continues south through a pine forest with soft needles on the trail. The Cobbly Knob ridge can still be seen behind - if you look to the north. Then the trail goes east around the ridge (from the topographical map it looks as if the trail is at the 2200' line) and enters into a flat area before it turns to the left and begins its descent to Ramsey Creek. We nicknamed this Bill's hill after Bill Steiner, who has hiked it many times with me. On the right of the trail in the brush, almost out of sight, is another fireplace with a fallen chimney. There are some big old-growth trees, several hemlocks, on both sides of the trail and a very steep ravine on the right, which is the source of the creek. Perhaps the steepness of the ravine kept the loggers out. The trail drops 500' rapidly over a couple hundred yards with Ramsey Creek on the right.

Ramsey Creek

OST crosses the creek and will cross it again four more times. A pile of stones up on the right may have been Stone wall beside trail another chimney. Further down the ravine is another chimney on the left of the trail. The trail crosses the creek again and continues down into Ramsey Creek ravine, until another fireplace with a fallen chimney is seen on the right - broken parts of a crock pot lie around it as well as a piece of a fire stove. After crossing Ramsey Creek several more times it climbs up and west, out of the Ramsey Creek ravine, goes though a forest mixed with pine and deciduous trees, to an elevation marker 1969 feet (identified on the old 1932 map). It curves around a ridge and comes upon stone walls first on the right and then on both sides of the trail. On the right or east is one of the few remaining full, standing chimneys with a "V" hearth in the fireplace. This "V" hearth is distinctive among the chimneys on OST. In fact, there are two fireplaces on each side of this chimney. The stone walls continue along OST and further along a pile of stones exist on the same side as the chimney - I assume it is a fallen chimney, for the 1932 map shows another house existed here. In the fall when the "acoustical" vegetation has fallen to the ground, the noise from highway 321 can be heard to the west. Eventually the trail makes a sharp east-southeast turn to the right. On the left is the original OST hidden and overgrown. It then climbs up about 650 yards through a forest of green rhododendron, until the sounds from Noisy Creek can be heard as the trail approaches the creek.

Noisy Creek

A few hundred yards before Noisy Creek are two signposts identifying OST; one sign points west and one east. Between the signs is an unmarked man-way that leads 6/10 mile down to highway 321. Only in an emergency should this old trail be used, for it is unmarked and often seems to disappear into the creek. It has fallen trees on it that have to be climbed over and under, and is dangerously close to a steep hill at one point. It will pass through a dark pine forest where the remains of a few homes still exist. As the sounds of the highway are heard, the trail veers left, passes a wall of stones and then crosses a small creek and eventually ends up on the highway next to a sign for an underground cable. To the left one-half mile is the entrance to Cobbly Knob where there is a security guard.

At the two signposts the trail continues east, and remains of an old home site are seen on the right, just before it crosses Noisy Creek and climbs again. Up the trail climbs until it comes to another homesite in a large clearing. At this point you may cross the creek to the right and return to the trail in 50 yards by crossing back, or you can stay on the left and cross its small tributary and rejoin the trail on the left side of the creek. It then climbs up and passes another old chimney. Up, up the trail climbs then turns left away from Noisy Creek. It follows another deep ravine on its left, which I believe is the source of Tumbling branch - a tributary of Noisy Creek. It is so deep no sound of Tumbling Branch can be heard. It appears to cross over the ridge around 2900 feet and then descend to Texas Creek.

Stone wall Texas Creek

A bench marker is burried near the headwaters of Texas Creek - elevation 2789. Another chimney from a homesite can be seen on the right with a wash bucket on it and further down on the right another chimney with the "V" hearth in it. Down the trail goes though rhododendron thickets until it comes upon a lengthy stone wall five feet high on the right side of the trail. The wall continues to Webb Creek, and it is most unusual in that it exists on both sides of Old Settlers trail for some distance.

Webb Creek

After crossing Webb Creek hikers have a choice of continuing on OST to the right, or south, to ascend a small mountain, or straight ahead. If OST is followed, it will climb and then cross over

Snag Mountain and then descend into a beautiful valley where the trail crosses Snag Branch, just beyond one homesite on the left. A few stone walls will be found in the valley and two homesites on the left. Fifty yards beyond Stone walls lining trail can be seen second home site, where the remains of another collapsed chimney are found. About fifty yards further a cemetery will be found. One old sandstone headstone reads 1877. Careful observation will reveal that most of the cemetery contains very young children. Many children died of childhood and other diseases that were then incurable at that time. Continuing on the trail crosses Dunn Creek, Spring Branch and Indian Camp Creek before it eventually intersects the trail that goes to Albright Grove to the south or to highway 321 and Laurel Springs Road to the north, or Cosby, past Henwallow Falls to the east.

However, at Webb Creek, if you go straight-ahead about 100 yards, it will lead to a wide old road, and the roof of McCarters pioneer barn can be seen straight ahead. Beyond the barn the home site can be found with the remains of two chimneys, and beyond the chimneys a small smoke, or springhouse can be seen. Or, at the intersection of the unmarked trail and the old road there is another unmarked trail on the left that leads about 800 yards back to highway 321 and a small parking area. Or, if you follow the wide old road, it will also lead to highway 321 where you may park.

Luxury Log Home Resort in the Smoky Mountains